I am not a diesel mechanic but I try to capture what I learn as I work through different issues. I read everything I can find about the early L-Series Tractors. I understand the L175, L210, L225, L225DT, and L260 are essentially the same tractor except for differing engine size. Also the L225/L225DT has a 3 cyl engine and the 225DT has 4 wheel drive components. If you know other wise, let me know. I think the 1969-70 L200 is somewhat like these but didn't have headlights.

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Brake Shaft Bearing Repairs

When I opened the right brake housing to assess what was going to be necessary to repair the brakes, I got an outpouring of transmission gear oil. The whole housing was full. The drum and shoes were swimming in it. After getting it drained and pulling the drum, it was obvious why. The shaft seal was warped and deformed beyond any semblance of symmetry. I pulled the 4 bolts that hold the housing on and tapped it loose. It came off easily but destroyed the gasket in the process. The bad news was behind the brake housing.

The brake shaft bearing was shredded. Most of the inner bearing race was intact on the shaft but the outer race was in shards. Only one of the ball bearings was even visible. The rest had made their way to the bottom of the case. Since I've put hundreds of hours on it and I'm assuming this didn't just happen, I'm going to leave the loose ball bearings where they are. I couldn't find a simple way to get to the inside of the differential.

I took the brake shoes to a place in Tacoma. They relined them for about $75.
I got a new brake shaft bearing and seal from McGuire's Bearing in Tacoma. $14 for the bearing. $2.50 for the seal.
I got the shaft collar and O-ring from a Kubota dealer. Jennings Equipment in Puyallup, WA. $52.00 bucks for a simple machined collar. I had a local machinist knock off a duplicate for $25.00.

Jennings Equipment removed the old bearing race and pressed the new bearing onto the shaft for about 20 bucks.

Reassembly was easy except for accidentally breaking the brake rod at some point. I'll need to borrow a welder to fix it.
I had to make gaskets. Scissors and a hole punch speed the process.
The easiest way to put the springs back in the brake shoes is to hook both springs into place on the shoes and then flex them onto the cover assembly.

While assembling, pay attention to the fact that when installing the housing cover with the shoes in place, the brake came goes to the forward of the housing and also note that the arm that goes on the cam is not symmetrical and you need to install them so they are parallel. I think as the brakes wear they can be flipped to take up a different amount of play.

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